Birding in the Western Andes
In the Western Andes I had perhaps the best birding of all Colombia, with
extraordinary birds.
Unfortunately nearly none of them is at this moment (July 2003) safe. Hopefully this
situation will change soon. I give you anyway the information.
I have placed the Anchicaya valley in the Choco region.
Pueblo Rico
(1700-2500 m asl; N 5°13'14,8", W 76°01'43,6"; Dep. Risaralda)
It was one of the last places where one could safely watch birds along the western side
of the Western Andes. It was the only place where one could find
Black-&-gold Tanager (Bangsia melanochlamys)
(Bangsia is sometimes placed in Buthraupis).
And it is common here (several sightings/day)!
Note: the other endemic Bangsia: Gold-ringed Tanager
(Bangsia aureocincta) occurs lower and has been seen on the Montezuma road
in Pueblo Rico (though it is not safe to watch birds here).
Seen the very limited altitude range, one can find an enormous amount of birds.
And also a number of rare (and/or special) species, such as
Red-bellied Grackle (Hypopyrrhus pyrohypogaster) (endemic),
Chestnut-crested Cotinga (Ampelion rufaxilla),
Beautiful Jay (Cyanolyca pulchra),
Multicoloured Tanager (Chlorochrysa nitidissima) (endemic),
Yellow-breasted Antpitta (Grallaria flavotincta) (common).
Nariņo Tapaculo (Scytalopus ) (endemic),
Crested Ant-Tanager (Habia cristata) (endemic),
Rufous-crested Tanager (Creurgops verticalis),
Olivaceous Piha (Lipaugus cryptolophus),
Hooded Siskin (Carduelis magellanica),
Golden-breasted Fruiteater (Pipreola aureopectus),
Fulvous-dotted Treerunner (Margarornis stellatus),
Black-billed Mountain-toucan (Andigena nigrirostris) and
Chestnut-breasted Wren (Cyphorhinus thoracicus) with its beautiful song.
Golden-headed Quetzal (Pharomachrus auriceps) is everywhere common!

There are 2 place where one can stay:
- Karagabi (N 5°09'48", W 76°01'28,5") run by GER, the same organisation than
runs La Pastora. The trail from Pueblo Rico to the finca is very good.
For contact information see La Pastora in the
Ucumari NP section.
- Finca Providencia (N 5°09'59,4", W 76°00'53,3") is run by Madremonte
(contact them in Bogota: 3473816 or 2488078). It is a huge reserve (4000 ha)
with very good trails. There is even a trail that goes to Santuario
(N 5°09'39,9", W 76°00'42,6").
Both reserves are linked by a steep trail, making a triangular trail system.
All 3 trails are very good birding.
It is possible to bird the whole loop in a day.
But remember, you are in the very wet Western Andes. The trails can be very muddy,
due to the combination rain and cattle.
The beautiful red variety of Andean Cock-of-the-Rock
(Rupicola peruviana) is quite common here. There are a few leks.
One is at the start of the trails (N 5°11'25,5", W 76°01'27,8") and another
along the trail towards Karagabi.
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El 18
(1800 m asl; Dep. Valle)
This place lies at a low pass (1800 m asl). The place is busy in the weekends.
Lots of people come here for the cooler air. There are some food stalls.
For us, it is one of the best places for Multi-coloured Tanager
(Chlorochrysa nitidissima). Accommodation can be found if you walk a
bit back towards Cali. A hotel that actually works as a love hotel welcomes
as well birders. Besides it has a good garden, where the Tanager also occurs.
More information (including a species list) can be found on the website of Carl
Downing: Birding in Colombia.
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