- Introduction
- Where do you want to go birding in Venezuela today?
- La Mucuy Bird Observatory
- Hato's in the llanos ( Hato El Frio, Hato El Cedral, Hato Piñero)
- John Van der Woude's Trip Reports
- Video Birding in the Merida Andes (Ronald Orenstein)
- Birdwatching in Venezuela (Danish Ornithological Society, 11/1995)
- Birding in Venezuela (1999)
- Venezuela (Bill Murphy, 10/1995)
- Luke's Venezuela Trip reports
- VENEZUELA (F.Toldi & P. Metropulos, 2/2000
- VENEZUELA (Roger Ahlman, 6/2000)
- Neotropical Bird Club
- Neobird mailing list
- Cracid Specialist Group
- Venezuelan Map Page
- BirdLife International
- Wings of America (Distribution maps of SA-birds)
- Birdwatching in Venezuela
- Birding (safely) in Colombia
Mérida state has some of the best and most convenient birding areas in Venezuela. From the city of Merida one can travel to the lowlands at sealevel or to the highlands above 3500 m in just 2 hours.
Vegetation goes from tropical savannah to cloudforests, elfin forests and paramo above treeline. So it is not surprising that over 500 species can be found here.
The information that follows is the result of many months birding between 1997 and 2006. It includes information about what you can expect to see at different sites and - as important - where to sleep/eat and how to get there.
Most places are accessible by public transport. But in my opinion this is only worth considering if you are staying for at least one week at each birding site. In case you have limited time, you can join one of the tours that we organise. It will save you time and money.
Another option is renting a 4x4 jeep with driver, which is cheaper than renting a car. And at birding sites, you don't have to worry that someone may break into the car.
Accommodation in touristy Mérida is usually not a problem. There are many "posadas" (guesthouses).
I will be pleased with your experiences and comments when you have finished your trip.
Also have a look at my Colombian website for information about birding in this country.
You can email me for more information at jurgen.beckers@gmail.com.
I wish you good birding!
Jurgen Beckers, 23/9/2006
PS: At the moment 1 US$ = 2800 Bolivars. 5 years ago it was 700 Bol/US$.
1. Santa Rosa (farmland, cloudforest at 1800 m asl)
2. La Mucuy (cloudforest, elfin forest, paramo between 2200-3000 m)
3. Laguna Mucubaji / Mifafi (paramo at 3500 m)
4. Olinda (La Azulita) / La Carbonera (farmland, cloudforest 800-1700 m)
5. Limones/Bolivia (plantations, 400 - 800 m)
6. Rio Frio (plantations, lower forest from 400-800 m)
7. San Isidro tunnel-road / La Soledad (cloudforest at 1400 m)
8. Catatumbo lowlands (mangrove, swamps at sea level)
9. Los Llanos (savannah, 200 m asl)
10. La Guada (Foothills at southern site, 300-900 m asl)
11. Other areas around Mérida
12. Links
1. Santa Rosa (Open grasslands and cloudforest at 1800 m asl)
Santa Rosa is probably the best birding area close to the city centre. I have been birding here a lot in '97 and '98. It has a number of species that are uncommon in e.g. La Mucuy (see further), Rusty Flowerpiercer (Diglossa sittoides), Eastern Meadowlark (Sturnella magna) (very common here in the paddocks), Torrent Tyrannulet (Serpophaga cinerea) and Olive-backed Woodcreeper (Xiphorhynchus triangularis). Also Slaty-backed Nightingale-thrush (Catharus fuscateris) very common here (by sound).
The road towards the forest is good for the near-endemic Venezuelan Tyrannulet (Zimmerius improbus).
Getting there
You can get here easy by taxi (2000 Bs). Just tell them to go to Santa Rosa and they will drop you off at the end of the road. Then walk straight on between the stone walls. Once in the forest and after crossing a creek, it is best to take the path to the right.
To come back, just walk to the main road and take a bus to the centre.
2. La Mucuy (Cloudforest, Elfin forest, Paramo between 2200 and 3000 m)
This is probably the most popular place for birders in the state of Mérida. To get here from Mérida, take a bus that leaves on the corner of Calle 19 & Av. 4. They run very frequently (every 5 min. from 5 a.m. on). Get off at the Plaza Bolivar in Tabay. In a corner of this plaza there are jeeps with the sign "Linea La Mucuy". Not all of them are going as far as the parque. You can wait here until there are 4 persons (and pay 500 Bs for the fare) or you can pay for the whole car (2 US$). You can also try hitching. It is about 8 km (uphill) and it is easy as you just have to follow the road. In the parque you have to register (1/2 US$).
The best birds are around the visitor centre and along the Pico Humboldt trail that goes to Laguna Coromoto. Although it is possible to walk to the lake and back in one day, I recommend staying overnight at the campground of the lake at 3000 m. There are good species around the lake and in the elfin forest, such as Red-crested Cotinga (Ampelion rubrocristata) and White-browed Spinetail (Hellmayrea gularis) and Slaty-backed Hemispingus (Hemispingus goeringi).
A bit lower (between 2500 & 3000 m) Barred Fruiteater (Pipreola arcuata) and Chestnut-breasted Chlorophonia (Chlorophonia pyrrhophrys) are often found in the canopy in MF (Mixed Flocks). Further there is Strong-billed Woodcreeper (Xiphocolaptes promeropirhynchus) & Crimson-mantled Woodpecker (Piculus rivolii) and if you are lucky a Plushcap (Catamblyrhynchus diadema) or Rusty-faced Parrot (Hapalopsittaca amazonina).
Camping is a must if antpitta's are your goal. They are easiest seen at dusk, when they
are taking a dust bath on the paths. (I noticed that this depends on the season.) Undulated
Antpitta (Grallaria squamigera) is mostly seen at the higher parts of the trail,
Chestnut-crowned (Grallaria ruficapilla) and Grey-naped
(Grallaria griseonucha) on the lower parts.
On most days, you will hear the first all day long. Endemics are White-fronted Whitestart (Myioborus albifrons) (common), Mérida Sunangel (Heliangelus spencei) (common), Grey-capped Hemispingus (Hemispingus reyi) (common), Golden Starfrontlet (Coeligena eos) (fairly common at higher areas), Merida Wren (Cistothorus meridae) (at Laguna Coromota), Merida Flowerpiercer (Diglossa gloriosa) (at Laguna Coromota) and Rose-headed Parakeet (Pyrrhura rhodocephala) (though this species can be easier seen in Olinda).
The La Mucuy Bird Observatory team has publiced a recent bird list of the area.
You can obtain it at the visitor centre in La Mucuy.
Or send me an email, and I will send you an updated list.
You can also visit their website: La Mucuy Bird Observatory.
Another good birding area in the mountains is the road to El Morro and beyond to Aricagua. The cloud forest is along the road, which is easy for those who can't walk far. It also has some very dry areas inbetween, which are good for Black-backed Grosbeak (Schizoeaca coryi) and the near-endemic Narrow-tailed Emerald (Chlorostilbon stenura).
It is difficult to find the road. Ask for the road to the tourist village of Los Nevados.
The Grosbeak and the Emerald can be best found at the turn-off to El Morro.
3. Mifafi / Laguna Mucubaji (Paramo, 3500 m asl)
Probably the best «high altitude» birding can be done around the Condor Centre at Mifafi. Sometimes we found all the specialities (Bearded Helmcrest (Oxypogon guerinii), the endemic Ochre-browed Thistletail (Schizoeaca coryi), Andean Tit-spinetail (Leptasthenura andicola), Paramo Seedeater (Catamenia homochroa), Plain-coloured Seedeater (Catamenia inornata), Andean Condor (Vultur gryphus)) within a half hour !!
For Mifafi take any bus to Valera or Apartaderos from the terminal.
Explain to the driver where you want to go to. He will drop you
off at the entrance of the dirt road. It is a short walk to the visitor centre.
The best area is on the left before the tall Eucalyptus tree.Birding at Laguna Mucubaji is not always very succesful. A lot depends on the time of the year you visit it. When it is very dry you can hardly find anything. Best are Nov & Dec when the Espeletia is blooming.
Anyway, it is still the best place for Merida Wren (Cistothorus meridae).
For Laguna Mucubaji take a bus to Barinas or Apartaderos. At the lake walk towards the next lake (Laguna Negra). It is pleasant walking as it doesn't involve too much climbing. Walk also to the other side of Laguna Negra, which is good for Thornbill and Merida Wren.
The bus to either area takes 2 hours (3 US$). To get to the terminal take a minibus in Calle 26 (between Av. 2 & 3).
3b. Las Tapias (Elfin forest, 2700 m asl)
Though just a short track, it has some good birds. Orange-throated Sunangel (Heliangelus mavors) is common here.
The following special birds are also quite common: Crimson-mantled Woodpecker (Piculus rivolii), Superciliaried Hemispingus (Hemispingus superciliaris), Pearled Treerunner (Margarornis squamiger), Mérida Flowerpiercer (Diglossa carbonaria) and Mérida Tapaculo (Scytalopus meridae).
Last time we found here Chestnut-breasted Chlorophonia (Chlorophonia pyrrhophrys), the shy Buff-breasted Mountain-tanager (Buthraupis taeniata) and in the creek there was a few-weeks-old Torrent Duck (Merganetta armata). Closeby this creek a curious Undulated Antpitta (Grallaria squamigera) came into the open.
I even encountered here a Scarlet Ibis (Eudocimus ruber) once!
It is easy getting there. Drive down from Laguna Mucubaji (or up from Santa Domingo). You will soon find the restaurant Las Tapias. The entrance is a 100 m further down.
4. Olinda, La Azulita (Farmland, scrub, cloudforest; 900-1500 m asl)
My favourite birding ground in the Venezuelan Andes. Excellent birding in a mixture of farmlands and forest. Because of the vicinity of the lowlands, birds can be found beyond their normal altitudal range frequently.
Up to now I found here 200 species!
In the morning it is impressive to see the Military Macaws
(Ara militaris) flying overhead to their feeding grounds. Perhaps the most special birds are Sooty-capped Hermit (Phaethornis augusti) and the endemic Rose-headed Parakeet (Pyrrhura rhodocephala). Both are very common. Further there is Blue-naped Chlorophonia (Chlorophonia cyanea), Yellow-billed Toucanet (Aulacorhynchus sulcatus calorhynchus), Bronze-winged Parrot (Pionus chalcopterus) and Lemon-browed Flycatcher (Conopias cinchoneti).
The forests holds Northern White-crowned Tapaculo (Scytalopus atratus), Brown Tinamou (Crypturellus obsoletus), Pavonine Cuckoo (Dromococcyx pavoninus) (sighted only one year) and Rusty-breasted Antpitta (Grallaricula ferrugineipectus).
Besides all this there are beautiful views over Lago Maracaibo.
At Olinda there are some alternatives for accommodation.
One can stay at Monteverde (N 8° 45' 34,45" W 71° 28' 48,32"), which has its own forest (110 ha). This forest is dominated by fern trees. They grow quite well in this sandy (and poor) soil. Some parts are dominated exclusively by them. Though very impressing, they hold few birds. Along the main trail there is an big lek of Grey-chinned Hermit (Phaethornis griseogularis).
Accommodation (12 US$/night) and food (4 US$/meal) is really good.
There are no close-by neighbours and the silence is a luxuary.
Miguel will explain to you about the different Passifloras (=Passionfruit) that he breeds.
Contact Adeysa (0274-4145708 or 0416-7779160) or Miguel (English/Spanish 0416-6742530)
or send an email - well in advance - to
Monteverde.Before Monteverde is the posada "El Hechizo" of Roberto and Rafaela Stagno (0274-991011) (35 US$/night, 3 meals included).
The views from this posada are outstanding.
The Inga trees before the entrance are a magnet for hummers. When in bloom (only one week in february) species as Spangled Coquette (Lophornis stictolophus), Violet-headed Hummingbird ((Klais guimeti)) and Rufous-shafted Woodstar (Chaetocercus jourdanii) can be seen.
For those on a lower budget, it is possible to stay at the finca of Frederico, which is just a bit before "El Hechizo". His simple "finca" (8 ha) with coffee and bananas is a real paradise for birds.
Just from his patio one can see an amazing variety of species. Once we had 5 species of parrots in just half an hour.
Fred is Irish and speaks English, Gaelic, German and Spanish.
If you plan on staying at his farm bring along enough food, esp. vegetables, meat, bread, milk, spices and things like tea, sesame seeds. Don't forget the beer!
Best is to contact his wife Yvonnet in La Azulita (0274/997450).
All these places are at the end of Olinda II. At the end of Olinda I there is also a good birding area. The forest of Rafael Guerrero (N 8° 44' 42,4" W 71° 28' 52,6") used to be an impressive primary forest of 350 Ha (!), but unfortunately a lot of trees were recently cut.
When it was still good I found here Tawny-throated Leaftosser (Sclerurus mexicanus), Golden-winged Manakin (Masius chrysopterus), Moustached Puffbird (Malacoptila mystacalis) and Golden-breasted Fruiteater (Pipreola aureopectus). You can email Rafael at rafgue@yahoo.com (only in Spanish) or phone him on his mobile (0414/7280917). You can stay overnight for around 15 US$ (3 vegetarian meals included)
If you want the complete bird list of Olinda, just send me an email. Meanwhile I'm preparing a booklet about the birds of La Azulita.
Getting there
Take a bus from the terminal in Mérida to La Azulita (2 US$, 2 hours).
You will pass good cloud forest in La Carbonera. This area is very good
for birding in the early morning. So you might consider getting off here
and taking later a bus to La Azulita. It has good thermals here and
therefore good raptors, but unfortunately from 10.30 am on ... good clouds.
The University forest -as described in ML Goodwin's Birding in Venezuela-
isn't that good.In La Azulita you can hire a jeep which might bring you to the fincas for around 5000 Bs. If you arrive before noon on school days, you can take the "Metro" at 12.30 h to Olinda. There is also a bus at 6 pm, but it only goes as far as Olinda I. Pay 1 US$ extra and he will take you to the end of Olinda II. Ask around in La Azulita.
Another option is taking a bus to Caño Zancudo. Get off at the first turn-off after the cascades, which is called Lucateva (N 8° 44' 21,7" W 71° 26' 55,4"). The road uphill leads you to Olinda. It splits after a 2 km. Straight ahead is Olinda II, turning left leads you to Olinda I. It is about 6 km from Lucateva (800 m asl) to the end of Olinda II (1200 m asl). Hitchhiking should be easy.
Of course either of the posadas are willing to pick you up from the plaza Bolivar in La Azulita.
5. Limones, Bolivia and Rio Frio (Plantations, woodlands; 400 m - 900 m asl)
Limones & Bolivia are close to Olinda but at a lower altitude. Both have similar species. They can be easily visited in a day from Olinda.
From Olinda go back to the main road (this crossing is known as Lucateva)
and go further down direction Caño Zancudo. Turn right at the entrance
for Limones (N 8°46' 17,4" W 71° 27' 5,8").
You will go through plantations of coffee and cocoa, good for
Citron-throated Toucan (Ramphastos citreolaemus),
White-eared Conebill (Conirostrum leucogenys),
Masked Yellowthroat (Geothlypis aequinoctialis),
Yellow-tailed Oriole (Icterus mesomelas),
Rufous-breasted Hermit (Glaucis hirsuta) and
White-fringed Antwren (Formicivora grisea).Bolivia (entrance at N 8° 44' 11,8" W 71° 26' 40,9") is a bit higher and closerby. At Lucateva, go direction La Azulita. On the right hand side you will pass first hotel "La Neblina" (good value for 10 US$/room). Then after the cascadas on right hand side, there is a recreational area called "La Palmita". Opposite is a farm. Ask permission here to walk down through his land.
I often call Bolivia "Parrots Paradise" as it is a breeding place for many parrots.
One may walk down in the early afternoon and find it nearly empty,
but at around 5 pm, they start coming back from their feeding grounds. Spectacular!
Most common species are Chestnut-fronted Macaw (Ara severa) and
Orange-winged Parrots (Amazona amazonica). But also
Military Macaws (Ara militaris) might be seen here.
Lower down you will pass a beautiful marbled river.
Apart from the parrots there is also Black-faced Antthrush
(Formicarius analis),
King Vulture (Sarcoramphus papa),
Laughing Falcon (Herpetotheres cachinnans),
Violet-fronted Brilliant (Heliodoxa leadbeateri),
Collared Aracari (Pteroglossus torquatus) and
White-shouldered Tanager (Tachyphonus luctuosus).Rio Frio (Plantations, forest at foothills from 400-800 m asl) has similar species to Limones and Bolivia. It is a bit further away. A speciality is Brown Violetear (Colibri delphinae), which I didn't find in the other areas. It has also Citron-throated Toucan (Ramphastos citreolaemus).
|
If you are used to the sound that the Black-faced Antthrush (subspecies saturatus) makes in the Henri Pittier NP, you will perhaps not recognize it. This bird (subspecies griseoventris) makes a more easily imitated whistle with clearly separated notes. He will respond to your imitation, but not to a playback of the other subspecies. These birds look also quite different from the saturatus-birds of the Eastern Andes (e.g. La Soledad) and the Cordillera Occidental (e.g. Henri Pittier NP). But what is perhaps the most surprising is the complete different habitat. Here in Limones and Bolivia - and also in Colombia - it lives in relative dry foothills with heavy tangles usually between 300 and 600 m asl (max. 1000 m). It does not occur at higher elevations where the forest is wetter and the habitat looks similar to Rancho Grande. On the other hand saturatus-birds are common in wet forest around 1200 m asl and you will not find them at a lower altitude with similar habitat as our Limones birds. Up to now I haven't found the 2 subspecies to overlap in range, but they come already very close. Anyhow, already enough reasons to split it and to place F. a. saturatus as a different species. |
Shared taxis or open minibuses run along this road from time to time. It is about 10 km to the end of the road. From here a path goes into the mountains. Though the area is still good, there has been a lot of deforestation lately.
7. San Isidro tunnel-road / La Soledad (Cloudforest at 1400 m asl)
The San Isidro-road is famous for its Cock-of-the-Rock (Rupicola peruviana) lek(*), but it has many other species as well.
To get there from Mérida you have to take a bus to Barinas. The first leaves at 7 am. Ask the driver to drop you off at «Las Minas» or «Las Gallitas» in San Isidro. It lies about 20 minutes beyond Santo Domingo. If the driver still doesn't know where you want to get off, then tell him it is 1 km beyond «La Raya». This is the border between the states Barinas and Mérida.
If everything goes well the driver will drop you at a concrete side road (It is the only side road on the right hand side for the whole track.)
Walk uphill for about 2 km until you reach the guard's house. A bit further on there is the quarry. Look for Cliff Flycatcher (Hirundinea ferruginea). Beyond the quarry the road continues. At 4 p.m. the Cock-of-the-Rock's starts singing. Normally you will find it easy. It is about 100 m before the creek. You can descend along a steep track to see them better.
Here are some species that I found there: Crested Quetzal (Pharomachrus antisianus), Immaculate Antbird (Myrmeciza immaculata), Saffron-headed Parrot (Pionopsitta pyrilia), Golden-winged Manakin (Masius chrysopterus), Red-ruffed Fruitcrow (Pyroderus scutatus), Red-headed Barbet (Eubucco bourcierii), Red-rumped Cacique (Cacicus haemorrhous), Black-mandibled Toucan (Ramphastos ambiguus) and Golden-breasted Fruiteater (Pipreola aureopectus). Others have seen Northern Helmeted Curassow (Pauxi pauxi).
Apart from camping at the end of the tunnel road, there are some other alternatives. I stayed one night at the guards house and I could use a hammock and blankets. He was quite glad to have some company. There are some (noisy) Band-tailed Guans nearby.
La Soledad is a bit lower down (direction Barinas). Species are a bit similar to
the ones from the San Isidro road.10 minutes lower you will pass the Barragán river. Also here one can find interesting species along the track that follows the river.
Grey-headed Kite (Leptodon cayanensis) is seen commonly, as well as Pale-billed Jacamar (Brachygalba goeringi), Rufous-&-white Wren (Thryothorus rufalbus), Capped Heron (Pilherodius pileatus) and White-winged Becard (Pachyramphus polychopterus).
Buses back to Mérida pass at 12.30, 15.30 and 17.30. But it is always safer to wave down every bus that goes direction Santo Domingo. Very often buses don't stop, because they are full.
From Santo Domingo you can take a shared taxi to Apartaderos, from where it is easier to get to Mérida.
But for visiting these areas it is better to stay in Santo Domingo. There are plenty of good posadas.
I recommend the really nice "La Casa de mis Viejos". (11 US$/person)
On the way back, you might consider stopping at Hotel Los Frailes. Just before the hotel there are passionflowers, which are visited in early morning/late evening by Sword-billed Hummingbirds (Ensifera ensifera).
A km or so on the main road beyond the Hotel, there is another entrance to the National Park and you can camp here (It is forbidden closeby the hotel).
(*) There are other leks in Mérida, but they are more difficult to get to.
8. Catatumbo lowlands (Mangrove, swamps at sea level)
This National Park lies at the borders of the Maracaibo-lake. It is the best place
to see Northern Screamer (Chauna chavaria) in Venezuela. (The bird is also the symbol of the
park.)The last time I was there we saw the rare Slender-billed Kite (Rostrhamus hamatus), Snail Kite (Rostrhamus sociabilis), Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture (Cathartes burrovianus), American Pygmy Kingfisher (Chloroceryle aenea), Collared Aracari (Pteroglossus torquatus) and Tucuxi Dolphin (Sotalia fluviatilis).
Getting there
Take a bus to Santa Barbara (often it is faster to take one to El Vigia and change here to Santa Barbara). From this terminal in Santa Barbara take another one to Puerto Concha. Here you have to arrange a boat.
Tell them that you come for the «Chicaguires» (= Northern Screamers) and they'll understand.
It should be possible to negotiate a «Lancha» that brings you to the Parador for 7 US$.
This Parador is a house on stilts with open platforms where the rangers stay.
You can stay here for free, use their gas cooker and the shower.
But you have to take all food with you, a hammock or a
sleeping mat and a sleeping bag. Do something in return for the rangers.The lake-breeze makes it pleasanty cool (cold at night) and there are few mosquitoes. Be aware that this is a small house on stilts 100 meters away from the shore. The only thing you can do is swim and enjoy the pelicans.
The rangers can negotiate with the fishermen to take you around for a 2-hour tour. "Chicaquires" can be found throughout the day.
The "lancheros" are willing to pick you up a few days later for the same price, but you can always come back hitching with fishermen.
Other formulas (as for instance a tour + dropping you off at the Parador) are also possible. Negotiate a bit in Puerto Concha with the fishermen.
9. Los Llanos (Savannah, 200 m asl)
A paradise for nature lovers. Huge numbers of waterfowl, mammals (Capybara, Giant Anteater, Dolphins),
reptiles (Crocodiles, Anaconda) and fishes (Piranha) can be witnessed. Best is the dry season (from Dec to Mar).
There are a few options. I will descend in order of «luxury» and of course price.
The Hatos
First there are the hatos, such as El Cedral and El Frio (with very similar services). You stay very comfortable in the middle of nature. Prices are around US$ 140/day.
El Cedral has some specialities such as Agami Heron (Agamia agami),
White-naped Xenopsaris (Xenopsaris albinucha) and
Yellow-knobbed Curassow (Crax daubentoni), which are difficult to see elsewhere.On Hato El Frio Horned Screamers (Anhima cornuta) are often found.
Tours from Mérida
A bit more adventurous - but a lot cheaper - are the 4 day-tours from Mérida, which are especially popular among backpackers. Some nights are spend in hammocks.
They costs around 40 US$/day and are surely worth the money. But keep in mind that most other members of the group are non-birders. So you won't have enough time to enjoy it all.
There are many companies offering trips to Los Llanos. Be critical when
comparing their services. They always promise you everything. Some are
just a few dollars cheaper, but they'll save it on things like food,
drinks, etc.
One of the better ones is Arassari Tours, which has competent guides.If you want to stay longer or do it quietly, you have to do it on your own. Much cheaper and you will experience the real llanos (in other words: tough). There are a few options:
Los Modulos
This is the place where most Mérida-tours go to. It lies at the edge of Hato El Cedral and has similar birds.
Getting there
Take a bus to Barinas (3 hours, 3000 Bs) and then catch another to Mantecal. Before Mantecal ask the driver to drop you off at the turnoff to «Los Modulos de Mantecal». Walk a bit along this road, find a shady place and wait for a lift. This can be easy, but sometimes you have to wait for several hours.
There are a few places where you can stay.
You might consider staying at Ramon (better known as «Barigas», which means «belly»). He charges 21000 Bs for 3 days (3 meals/day, accommodation, and tours included), but he tends to overcharge people who come on their own.
Along the road I found here Amazonian Black-Tyrant (Phaeotriccus poecilocercus).
The closerby University place charges 8000 Bs/day and apparently the nearby forest is better (with a Wire-tailed Manakin (Pipra filicauda) lek). But there are many more places, where they charge less (but of course you'll never know what you will get).
Bruzual/San Vicente
Bruzual lies on the way to Mantecal at the Rio Apure. Good birding along the shores of the
river or along the road just on the other side of the Apure. Horned Screamer (Anhima cornuta)
can be seen around the Apure. It is rarer to the south such as at Los Modulos.Also the road between Bruzual and San Vicente is good. In the middle of this village there is a colony of Buff-necked Ibises (Theristicus caudatus)!
You can stay in Bruzual. The best is Hotel Bruzual. You can also stay in the posada of Arassari in San Vicente. You have to bring your hammock/mosquito net. If you plan on doing so, ask Tom in Mérida before you leave. Arassari Tours is close to the Mérida cable car station.
You might consider going on river trips from either San Vicente or Bruzual, but then it will be more expensive (100 US$/day) than going on a tour. All species can be seen when walking (except for the screamer, anaconda and dolphins), but in fewer numbers.
Santa Catalina
The cheapest, but the most adventurous and hardest way.
In Puerto Nutria (lies just before Bruzual) take a shared Lancha to Santa Catalina.
Santa Catalina is nothing more than a shop that lies along the river between Puerto Nutria
and San Fernando. Take all food and beer (and fishing gear) with you as the shop sells only soft drinks and
common things as rice and ketchup. The friendly shop owner cooked the fish we caught
(mainly piranha and catfish).You can camp along the shores of the Apure. Be well prepared. Take precautions against chiggers/ticks. You need hammocks with mosquito nets or a tent with fly screen. Best is to go with some friends.
In a hard week we found 120 species. Best birds were Pale-headed Jacamar (Brachygalba goeringi), Great Potoo (Nyctibius grandis), Double-striped Thick-knee (Burhinus bistriatus), Crane Hawk (Geranospiza caerulescens) and Horned Screamer (Anhima cornuta).
10. La Guada
For many years I have been looking for a good site in the foothills on the southern site of the Andes.
I was convinced to find here many interesting species who are not present on the La Azulita side of the mountains.
Besides I noticed that also few investigation has been done at this side.
Then Ponciano, my dear driver, invited me at his farm.
From the village of Socopo, we drove into the mountains. It takes about 1,5 hours to get to his farm at 900 m asl. The road goes mainly through farmland. A bit beyond his farm, starts an intact forest. From here the road goes down.
What I discovered here was astonishing.
One day I ran into a small mixed flock, with a White-plumed Antbird (Pithys albifrons )!!
So far away from the Amazonas.
Birds were relative tame. Grey Tinamou (Tinamus tao ) can be seen relative easily.
I could even observe a Collared Forest-falcon (Micrastur semitorquatus ) at an army ants swarm. So close. I guessed he was at about 5 meters from me. At eye level and with no bushes in between us.
He didn't even fly away, when I finally had to go.
You can walk down to the river at 300 m asl. The river goes here through a small canyon.
Andean Cock-of-the-rocks (Rupicola peruviana ) have their nests here.
Following birds I heard nearly every day: Wattled Guan (Aburria aburri ), Pavonine Cuckoo (Dromococcyx pavoninus ) and Scaled Fruiteater (*)(Ampelioides tschudii )!
Hereunder follows a list of the specialities that I found here.
Band-tailed Guan (Penelope argyrotis ),
Yellow-tufted Woodpecker (*)(Melanerpes cruentatus ),
Red-crowned Woodpecker (Melanerpes rubricapillus ),
Groove-billed Toucanet (Aulacorhynchus sulcatus ),
Channel-billed Toucan (*)(Ramphastos vitellinus ),
Black-mandibled Toucan (Ramphastos ambiguus ),
Chestnut-fronted Macaw (Ara severa ),
Scarlet-fronted Parakeet (Aratinga wagleri ),
Orange-chinned Parakeet (Brotogeris jugularis ),
Blue-headed Parrot (Pionus menstruus ),
Bronze-winged Parrot (Pionus chalcopterus ),
Mealy Parrot (Amazona farinosa ),
Scaled Pigeon (*)(Columba speciosa ),
Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher (*)(Myiobius erythrurus ),
Golden-headed Manakin (Pipra erythrocephala ),
Striped Manakin (*)(Machaeropterus regulus ),
Eastern Slaty Antshrike (*)(Thamnophilus punctatus ),
White-flanked Antwren (Myrmotherula axillaris ),
Tawny-throated Leaftosser (Sclerurus mexicanus ),
Black-faced Antthrush (Formicarius analis ),
Short-tailed Antthrush (Chamaeza campanisona ),
Violaceous Jay (Cyanocorax violaceus ),
Spotted Nightingale-thrush (Catharus dryas ),
White-shouldered Tanager (Tachyphonus luctuosus ),
Red-crowned Ant-tanager (*)(Habia rubica ),
(*) Birds not found in similar habitat on the other side of the Andes.
Really nice are the many Black Poison Dart Frogs (Mannophryne collaris ). They can be heard and seen close to Ponciano's house.
11. Other areas around Mérida
The cable car (Teleferico) (Cloudforest/Paramo from 1600 to 4200 m)Mérida has the largest teleferico in the world. It is an easy way to get to all levels of vegetation in a single day. I haven't done much birding here as I found it quite expensive and the last trip down is quite early (inform). But apparently you can buy a ticket to the first/second station and then walk down, which results cheaper.
La Culata (Paramo between 2900 and 3500 m)
Another spot in the paramo. It is the place to find Flammulated Treehunter (Tripadectes flammulatus). Much closer to Mérida than Laguna Mucubaji, but I found it less interesting. To get there take a minibus to El Valle in Calle 19 (between Av. 2 & 3). Remember: not all go to the end of the valley.
Laguna Uribante-Caparro
Interesting nature reserve on the borders between the states of Mérida, Barinas and Tachira. It is a bit beyond Pregonero. The road between Bailadores and Pregonero goes through some beautiful elfin forest.
Estanques
Good cloud forest, but the site is very similar to El Morro/Aricagua and lies further away. So...
More info at La Mucuy.
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