Birding in the Choco region
If there would be any place in the world were I would like to live, it would be in this region.
Without any doubt, it has world's richest biodiversity.
The area has perhaps a few real endemics such as (
Baudo Guan (Penelope ortoni),
Sooty-capped Puffbird (Bucco noanamae),
Baudo Oropendola (Gymnostinops cassini)),
but it has over 60 Choco endemics only shared with Panama and/or Ecuador.
But the area is perhaps the unsafest of all Colombia.
Therefore we limit ourselves to 2 areas,
which are at the moment of writing (May 2004) relative safe.
The Anchicaya valley
(300 - 1000 m asl; Dep. Valle)
Described in «Birds of Colombia» as one of the best birding areas in the world.
And I agree on that.
The best way to get here is taking a bus to Buenaventura. In Buenaventura you
can take a bus to Aguaclara. Exact where the bus stops is the only guesthouse.
(The next day the bus will continue to the village of Anchicaya and beyond).
From Aguaclara you have a good base for exploring the area. There is an
interesting side road. It starts on the left hand side after the bridge.
This is what I found here:
Black-cheeked Woodpecker (Melanerpes pucherani),
Spot-crowned Barbet (Capito maculicoronatus),
Stripe-billed Aracari (Pteroglossus sanguineus),
Chestnut-mandibled Toucan (Ramphastos swainsonii),
Black-breasted Puffbird (Notharchus pectoralis),
Barred Puffbird (Nystalus radiatus),
White-eyed Trogon (Trogon comptus),
Rufous-capped Motmot (Baryphthengus ruficapillus),
Rose-faced Parrot (Pionopsitta pulchra),
White-whiskered Hermit (Phaethornis yaruqui),
Tooth-billed Hummingbird (Androdon aequatorialis),
Blue-chested Hummingbird (Amazilia amabilis),
Purple-crowned Fairy (Heliothryx barroti),
Swallow-tailed Kite (Elanoides forficatus),
Barred Hawk (Leucopternis princeps),
Black-capped Pygmy-tyrant (Myiornis atricapillus),
Pacific Flatbill (Rhynchocyclus pacificus),
Ornate Flycatcher (Myiotriccus ornatus),
Tufted Flycatcher (Mitrephanes phaeocercus),
Fork-tailed Flycatcher (Tyrannus savana),
Lemon-browed Flycatcher (Conopias cinchoneti),
Black-tipped Cotinga (Carpodectes hopkei),
Blue-crowned Manakin (Pipra coronata),
Golden-collared Manakin (Manacus vitellinus),
Great Antshrike (Taraba major),
Western Slaty Antshrike (Thamnophilus atrinucha),
Pacific Antwren (Myrmotherula pacifica),
Dot-winged Antwren (Microrhopias quixensis),
Jet Antbird (Cercomacra nigricans),
Esmeraldas Antbird (Myrmeciza nigricauda),
Streaked Xenops (Xenops rutilans),
Spotted Woodcreeper (Xiphorhynchus erythropygius),
Bay Wren (Thryothorus nigricapillus),
Tawny-faced Gnatwren (Microbates cinereiventris),
Grey-breasted Martin (Progne chalybea),
White-thighed Swallow (Neochelidon tibialis),
Orange-billed Sparrow (Arremon aurantiirostris),
Buff-rumped Warbler (Basileuterus fulvicauda),
Scarlet-&-white Tanager (Chrysothlypis salmoni),
Dusky-faced Tanager (Mitrospingus cassinii),
Lemon-spectacled Tanager (Chlorothraupis olivacea),
Ochre-breasted Tanager (Chlorothraupis stolzmanni),
Scarlet-browed Tanager (Heterospingus xanthopygius),
Tawny-crested Tanager (Tachyphonus delatrii),
Lemon-rumped Tanager (Ramphocelus icteronotus),
Golden-chested Tanager (Bangsia rothschildi),
White-vented Euphonia (Euphonia minuta),
Grey-&-gold Tanager (Tangara palmeri),
Blue-whiskered Tanager (Tangara johannae),
Emerald Tanager (Tangara florida),
Silver-throated Tanager (Tangara icterocephala),
Rufous-winged Tanager (Tangara lavinia),
Scrub Tanager (Tangara vitriolina),
Golden-hooded Tanager (Tangara larvata),
Scarlet-thighed Dacnis (Dacnis venusta),
Red-legged Honeycreeper (Cyanerpes cyaneus),
Yellow-bellied Seedeater (Sporophila nigricollis),
Slate-coloured Grosbeak (Pitylus grossus),
Black-winged Saltator (Saltator atripennis),
Chestnut-headed Oropendola (Psarocolius wagleri) and
Scarlet-rumped Cacique (Cacicus uropygialis).
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Nuqui
(Dep.Choco)
Nuqui lies at the pacific coast in Choco. The area is very interesting for the
typical Choco species, such as Baudo Oropendola
(Gymnostinops cassini)!!, which I found here in May 2001.
One should known that there are guerilla and paramilitaries in the area,
though they rarely come close to the village.
There are a few options for getting there:
The easiest is by plane from Pereira with Aviapa (70 US$/one way). They have
daily flights (except Sunday) at 9 am. Other options are charter flights from
Medellin (inform in Medellin: Ecotel at 074/2664977). If coming by plane it is
better buying single tickets (which are only half price of a return ticket).
Sometimes you can find bargains in Nuqui for coming back.
Another option is by «lancha» (speedboat) from Buenaventura, who travels
either way every fortnight (35 US$). And the cheapest way of getting there is
by cargo boat (16 US, 24 hr). But they pass irregular.
There is a good choice in accommodation. The cheapest is in the grocery store
just outside the airport (4 US$/night). Margarita’s husband also arranges the
boat transports between Buenaventura and Nuqui. At the beach it is more quiet.
Here I recommend Hotel Palmas del Pacifico (Tel: 094/6836010). It
costs 8 US$/night, though you can bargain. Amanda cooks quite good.
Other good places for food are Miguel (Restaurant El Paisa) and Pola (ask around),
which are both 2,5 US$
Bring enough money as there are no banks in Nuqui. Also rubber boots are a must.
There is an interesting trail along the Ancachi river. Ask for the trail that
goes to the water supply.
This is the list of birds that I saw there :
Grey-headed Chachalaca (Ortalis cinereiceps),
Lineated Woodpecker (Dryocopus lineatus),
Crimson-crested Woodpecker (Campephilus melanoleucos),
Chestnut-mandibled Toucan (Ramphastos swainsonii),
Rufous-tailed Jacamar (Galbula ruficauda),
Black-breasted Puffbird (Notharchus pectoralis),
White-whiskered Puffbird (Malacoptila panamensis),
Slaty-tailed Trogon (Trogon massena),
White-tailed Trogon (Trogon viridis),
Ringed Kingfisher (Megaceryle torquata),
Amazon Kingfisher (Chloroceryle amazona),
Green Kingfisher (Chloroceryle americana),
Green-&-rufous Kingfischer (Chloroceryle inda),
Yellow-billed Cuckoo (Coccyzus americanus),
Smooth-billed Ani (Crotophaga ani),
Orange-chinned Parakeet (Brotogeris jugularis),
Rose-faced Parrot (Pionopsitta pulchra),
Blue-headed Parrot (Pionus menstruus),
Mealy Parrot (Amazona farinosa),
Band-rumped Swift (Chaetura spinicauda),
Band-tailed Barbthroat (Threnetes ruckeri),
White-whiskered Hermit (Phaethornis yaruqui),
Streak-throated Hermit (Phaethornis rupurumii),
Blue-crowned Woodnymph (Thalurania colombica),
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird (Amazilia tzacatl),
Purple-crowned Fairy (Heliothryx barroti),
Ruddy Pigeon (Columba subvinacea),
Grey-breasted Crake (Laterallus exilis),
Purple Gallinule (Porphyrio martinicus),
Spotted Sandpiper (Tringa macularia),
Sanderling (Calidris alba),
White-rumped Sandpiper (Calidris fuscicollis),
Wilson's Plover (Charadrius wilsonia),
Southern Lapwing (Vanellus chilensis),
Laughing Gull (Larus atricilla),
Pearl Kite (Gampsonyx swainsonii),
Plumbeous Kite (Ictinia plumbea),
Roadside Hawk (Buteo magnirostris),
Little Blue Heron (Egretta caerulea),
Cattle Egret (Bubulcus ibis),
Striated Heron (Butorides striatus),
Green Ibis (Mesembrinibis cayennensis),
Brown Pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis),
Turkey Vulture (Cathartes aura),
King Vulture (Sarcoramphus papa),
Magnificent Frigatebird (Fregata magnificens),
Common Tody-flycatcher (Todirostrum cinereum),
Brownish Flycatcher (Cnipodectes subbrunneus),
Olive-sided Flycatcher (Contopus borealis),
Long-tailed Tyrant (Colonia colonus),
Bright-rumped Attila (Attila spadiceus),
Rufous Mourner (Rhytipterna holerythra),
Tropical Kingbird (Tyrannus melancholicus),
Rusty-margined Flycatcher (Myiozetetes cayanensis),
Piratic Flycatcher (Legatus leucophaius),
Cinnamon Becard (Pachyramphus cinnamomeus),
Black-crowned Tityra (Tityra inquisitor),
Purple-throated Fruitcrow (Querula purpurata),
Blue-crowned Manakin (Pipra coronata),
Golden-collared Manakin (Manacus vitellinus),
Great Antshrike (Taraba major),
Pacific Antwren (Myrmotherula pacifica),
Dusky Antbird (Cercomacra tyrannina),
Chestnut-backed Antbird (Myrmeciza exsul),
Slaty Spinetail (Synallaxis brachyura),
Plain Xenops (Xenops minutus),
Wedge-billed Woodcreeper (Glyphorynchus spirurus),
Black-striped Woodcreeper (Xiphorhynchus lachrymosus),
Black-headed Antthrush (Formicarius nigricapillus),
Black-chested Jay (Cyanocorax affinis),
Bay Wren (Thryothorus nigricapillus),
White-breasted Wood-wren (Henicorhina leucosticta),
Southern Nightingale-wren (Microcerculus marginatus),
Southern Rough-winged Swallow (Stelgidopteryx ruficollis),
Barn Swallow (Hirundo rustica),
Orange-billed Sparrow (Arremon aurantiirostris),
Mourning Warbler (Oporornis philadelphia),
Olive-crowned Yellowthroat (Geothlypis semiflava),
Buff-rumped Warbler (Basileuterus fulvicauda),
Bananaquit (Coereba flaveola),
Dusky-faced Tanager (Mitrospingus cassinii),
Scarlet-browed Tanager (Heterospingus xanthopygius),
Lemon-rumped Tanager (Ramphocelus icteronotus),
Blue-grey Tanager (Thraupis episcopus),
Golden-hooded Tanager (Tangara larvata),
Blue-black Grassquit (Volatinia jacarina),
Variable Seedeater (Sporophila americana),
Lesson's Seedeater (Sporophila bouvronides),
Great-billed Seed-finch (Oryzoborus maximiliani),
Buff-throated Saltator (Saltator maximus),
Blue-black Grosbeak (Cyanocompsa cyanoides),
Chestnut-headed Oropendola (Psarocolius wagleri),
Baudo Oropendola (Gymnostinops cassini) !!!!,
Scarlet-rumped Cacique (Cacicus uropygialis),
Red-breasted Blackbird (Leistes militaris) and
Great-tailed Grackle (Quiscalus mexicanus).
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