Introduction
Chiang Dao is well known in Thailand for its cave. The cave system is very long
and deep (said to be the largest and deepest of Thailand).
But often it is overlooked that Chiang Dao is home of Thailand's third highest
mountain (2175 m asl). The limestone mountain is surrounded by pristine montane
evergreen forest, a forest type that is not so common anymore in Thailand.
Also other habitats are present. There are deciduous forests, mature bamboo,
open & half-open woodlands, grasslands and alpine vegetation.
All ranging from 500 to 2175 m. Perhaps the only vegetation type that is
missing is real lowland forest.
Arguably it is Thailands best trekking area.
Consequently, there is a rich fauna and flora. There are lots of species of
orchids (some endemic, especially at the higher parts of the forest) and an
abundance of butterflies.
But probably it is best known for its birds. Around 300 species have been discovered.
Some of them are quite rare.
As in most areas in Thailand nature suffered from human pressure. Only 20 years
ago there where still tigers living in the area.
As a reaction to the rapid loss of nature, a Wildlife Sanctuary was established.
This has undoubtedly reduced hunting and logging, but surely not enough. An
example: around the villages of the hill tribes, who inhabit the sanctuary,
there are virtually no birds.
I met hunters in the WS even at 150 m from a checkpoint! They hunt with their
long front-loaded rifles on anything that is useful for them.
Rumours are spreading that some of the tribes have to leave the Sanctuary. Particular
those who arrived after its establishment.
Let's also look at the bright side. One morning I saw a group of Thai tourists
watching at a adult Bengal Monitor (Varanus bengalensis) who was sitting next
to the stairs at the monastery. Apparently they bought it on Chiang Dao market
and released it here.
So there are people, who are aware of the vanishing nature.
While exploring the region I stayed at Malee's Nature
Lover Bungalows. It is a beautiful place in the middle of the nature.
I made a seperate page that gives you more information.
Hopefully you will enjoy Chiang Dao's nature.
Jurgen Beckers, 15 September 1999
Birds in Chiang Dao
At the moment of writing nearly 300 bird species have been discovered
around Doi Chiang Dao. The region is less visited than other parks, as
Doi Inthanon NP or Doi Suthep. So probably more will be found in the next
years.
Chiang Dao is known for specialities as Deignan's Babbler (an
endemic to this region), Hodgson's Frogmouth, Giant Nuthatch
and Hume's Pheasant.
There has been some discussion about Deignan's Babbler. Some
consider it conspecific with Rufous-fronted Babbler. Hume's pheasant occurs in the Indian states north of Bangla
Desh (Mizoram, Manipur, Nagaland & Arunachal Pradesh), in Myanmar and
China (Cynangxi & Yunnan provinces) and in NW-Thailand. In Thailand,
this species was feared extirpated, but now there are several sightings
annually. It has the status of being globally threated. Protection is needed.
Also Giant Nuthatch is globally threathed. It has been found
in centre of Myanmar (though no recent records) and in the Chinese provinces
Yunnan, SW Guizhou (where all rare). In Thailand it is only found in the
NW (in at least 3 protected areas). Doi Chiang Dao is probably the easiest
place to find it.
But the region harbours many more interesting species. On the steep
trail towards the summit all 3 species of Tesia have been found! Also Rufous-faced
Warbler has been seen on the same trail. This species hasn't been seen
in Thailand for many years.
Also Black-tailed Crake occurs in a pond in the mountains, his
typical habitat. Apart from Doi Inthanon, this is Thailand's second known
location.
Further there are goodies as White-crowned Forktail, Eye-browed
and Streaked Wren-Babbler, White-hooded Bulbul, Crested Finchbill, Spectacled
Barwing, Rusty-cheeked Scimitar-Babbler, Mountain Bamboo-Partridge, Rusty-naped
Pitta, Scarlet Finch and some Redstarts (White-bellied, Blue-fronted
and Daurian).
But the lack of lowland forests means that species who are regular found
up to 800/1000 m are lacking or are uncommon around Chiang Dao. Barbets
as Lineated, Green-eared and Coppersmith, woodpeckers
as White-bellied, Great Slaty, Rufous and Heart-spotted as
well as Blue Magpie have been seen, though very infrequently.
Further can we say that due to excessive hunting some species are getting
rare.
Hornbills haven't been seen for the last 5 years. Also pigeons are
now not easy to see and some other species (esp. Galliformes) are only
common within the enclosures of the monastery Wat Tham Pha Phlong.
For practical reasons birdnames follow P.Round & B.Lekagul's "A
guide to the birds of Thailand". (Between brackets are the more used names.)
The trails
There are many good trails around Doi Chiang Dao. The following cover most
the vegetation types: evergreen forest, deciduous forest, secondary growth,
bamboo, open and half-open woodlands, grasslands, scrub above the treeline,
marsh, etc.
There are of course many other trails. Some are freshly made (for poaching ?)
and a lot of them start from somewhere on the main road to Muang Khong. They
harbour also good species, but I limit to the ones above, as they have similar
species and access is easier.
Be careful as none of the trails are marked and can sometimes be difficult to
follow, especially in the dry season (from December to March) when the grass
is high.
Around Malee's bungalows
The search for species starts already in and around Malee's garden.
The more common species seen include Purple and Black-throated
Sunbird, Oriental Magpie-robin, White-rumped Shama, Red-whiskered
and Sooty-headed Bulbul, Greater and Lesser Coucal, Green-billed
Malkoha, Brown and Burmese Shrike, Common Iora, Blue Rock-Thrush,
Puff-throated Babbler, Pied Bushchat, Chestnut-tailed Starling, Common and
Dark-necked Tailorbird, Grey-breasted Prinia.
Sometimes Olive-backed Pipits were walking under the sprinklers
in search of insects.
There are less common species such as Yellow-vented Sunbird, Red-throated
Pipit, Siberian Rubythroat and Bluethroat.
For Indian and Bay Cuckoo look in the high trees (especially
in the morning).
At night you can hear Collared and Mountain Scops-Owl, Collared
and Asian Barred Owlet and even a Plaintive Cuckoo.
The monastery area (Wat Tham Pha Phlong)
If you continue on the bitumen road, you will soon arrive at the car
park of the monastery. Before the entrance on the right-hand side there
is a deciduous forest which is good for Black-hooded Oriole, Rosy, Scarlet
and Long-tailed Minivet and Sultan Tit.
The car park itself is also a good place to bird. The tree above the
vendors has a lot of nice birds the whole year round. Apparently the birds
don't mind the vendors. Golden-fronted, Blue-winged and Orange-bellied
Leafbird (the last 2 common), Streaked and Little Spiderhunter,
Thick-billed and Buff-bellied Flowerpecker can be seen in this tree.
Someone has seen a Grey-headed Parakeet here.
Opposite the vendors at the entrance one might see Greater Necklaced
and
Black-throated Laughingthrushes. Sometimes a bit of patience is needed
before they start moving again.
High in the sky are the silhouettes of Crested Tree-swifts.
They perch on bare tree tops, which stick out high above the canopy. To
see them well you need a scope.
Continue up the steps. Asian Fairy Bluebirds are common (esp.
in winter times) and sometimes a Red-headed Trogon flies over.
The jungle-trail
This is an interesting trail with lots of different vegetation.
It starts opposite the resting shelter along the stairs towards the
Pagoda.
The trail is quite old. It has been used as a smuggling-route for opium
from Burma. The smugglers travelled on horses over these narrow trails.
If you look carefully at the map, you can see that it goes straight towards
the border.
In the beginning you go through mixed deciduous forest with lots of
bamboo-brakes. Red Jungle-fowl flushes away. Here is the best place to see
them. They are relatively save within the enclosures of the monastery.
A bit further the path joins a well-maintained fire-break. In the dry
season, monks are keeping a strip of about 5 m free of leaves.
Here you have the most chances of seeing Rusty-naped Pitta.
Watch out for its call ("Chow Whhhhit") and if you hear it: just wait.
Good chances that he will cross the path.
The forest is a bit more open now. On the right hand side, we often
saw Pin-tailed and Wedge-tailed pigeons high in the trees,
but also common species as Greater Flameback, Great and Blue-throated
Barbet.
In the corner of the firebreak, the trail continues and climbs steep.
A bit further in the low bamboo I regularly saw a flock of birds who
closely resemble Deignan's Babbler. Many birdwatchers doubt if it
really exists and refer to it as a race of Rufous-fronted Babbler.
Anyway it is nearly impossible to be sure as it looks so similar and its
call is unknown.
Further in the taller bamboo there are Bamboo Woodpeckers and mixed
flocks containing Brown-cheeked Fulvetta, White-bellied Yuhina,
Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, Golden-spectacled Warbler and
Yellow-bellied Warbler.
Be careful: in winter the grass is tall and is it easy to lose the
way, especially towards the end.
When you reach a fork, turn left (to the right it goes to a Chinese
grave) and a bit later you are on the main road. Turn right and descend
on this steep (muddy or dusty) part. It takes another ½ hour of
good walking to reach Malee's.
The creeks
There are a number of creeks and damp gullies. I restrict myself to
the 2 nearest and most accessible, as they all have similar species.
The gully at Wat Tham Pha Phlong (Huai Mae Kut)
This is the nearest to Malee's and perhaps the most popular for birdwatchers.
Climb the stairs towards the Pagoda of Wat Tham Pha Phlong. It starts
on the right-hand side a few meters beyond the bridge over the gully. The
path follows the gully. Don't stand on the metal pipes.
The whole year round the common species are Puff-throated Bulbuls
(noisy), Grey-headed Flycatchers (the centre specie of mixed flocks),
Black-naped
Monarch (often mistaken for Hainans Flycatcher, which is more uncommon
here), Hill Blue Flycatcher, Ruby-cheeked Sunbird,
Little
Spiderhunter, Speckled Piculets. On the ground in the gully
there are White-crowned Forktails (common, but shy), Emerald
Doves and Scaly-breasted Partridges (beautiful calls).
The most interesting period is April, May. Then there are many species
who are rarely seen in December. Such as Streaked Wren-Babbler,
Eye-browed
Wren-Babbler (not shy, keeps on tossing dead leaves on the ground,
even when you pass at 3 meter), Stub-tailed Bush-Warbler, Siberian Blue-robin,
Orange-flanked Bush-Robin, Pale-legged Leaf-Warbler, Asian Paradise-Flycatcher
(not seen in Dec-Jan, but abundant in May),
Rusty-naped Pitta (uncommon), Violet Cuckoo
(the most seen cuckoo), Blue-bearded Bee-eater (the most
seen bee-eater).
Other birds found here are Blue Pitta, Banded Kingfisher, Pygmy
Wren-Babbler, Slaty-bellied Tesia, Pin-tailed Parrotfinch, Green Cochoa,
Slaty-backed Forktail.
The creek at Checkpoint 1 (Huai Pong)
Soon after Checkpoint 1 (the one on the road towards Muang Khong) and
before the steep climb, there is a trail on the left hand side. Follow
this trail until you reach a creek, then follow a path along the creek.
This creek has more water than the one at the Wat. She is never complete
dry.
The birds here are similar to the other gully. But the forest around
the creek is more open and a lot of species are easier seen here.
To be found daily in May: White-crowned Forktail, Slaty-bellied
Tesia, Red-billed Scimitar-Babbler, White-hooded Babbler, Green Magpie
and Greater Yellownape.
Sometimes Violet Cuckoo and Long-tailed Broadbill.
The road towards Muang Khong (Checkpoint 1-road)
This road starts behind Malee's house. The first flat part towards
the Checkpoint (2,5 km) can be very dusty in the dry season.
Species regularly seen in the bushes along this road include Radde's
Warbler, Buff-breasted Babbler (also common in the gullies in May),
White-browed
Scimitar-Babbler, Grey-throated Babbler (a hard skulker, mostly
seen in mixed flocks with Brown-cheeked Fulvettas),
Long-tailed Shrike.
In the high grass there are Thick-billed Warblers and Buttonquails.
Look out for Black-headed Bulbuls, which looks like the very
common Black-crested, except for its beautiful black and yellow
tail.
When crossing the bridges over the dry creek, a Emerald Dove
or a Grey Wagtail flush away.
After passing the checkpoint (you don't need a permit if you don't stay
overnight) the road climbs steep for the first 2 km (in the beginning on
cemented road). The deciduous forest is home for forest species as Racket-tailed
Drongo's, Yellownapes (Greater and Lesser), Collared
Falconet, Grey-headed Woodpecker.
Mixed flocks contain mostly Yellow-bellied Warblers, who are
very confiding.
If you find a fruiting tree, there is some chance in seeing Thick-billed
and Wedge-tailed Pigeons.
Outside the breeding season large groups of Long-tailed Broadbills
can be regular seen.
The best part is the first 12 km (until the next concrete part). The
scenery is very beautiful. From time to time, pick-ups are passing to bring
villagers from and to the market in Chiang Dao.
The steep summit trail
This trail is one of the best birdwatching trails around Chiang Dao.
It has some of the best evergreen forest.
Unfortunately, you have to do an effort. The trail is very steep and
all the way to the top is a continuous climb of about 5 hours. It is a
good idea to camp at the summit. Remember that you need a permit if you
want to stay overnight in the sanctuary. (This permit can be obtained at
the forestry department close to Malee's. No costs.)
The trail starts at a steep dirt road with cement wheel tracks close
to the stream in the village "Ban Tham Chiang Dao".
The first part goes through bamboo (Bamboo Woodpecker!).
But soon it goes steeper and then it continues through evergreen forest.
Special birds in this middle section are Yellow-cheeked Tit, Slaty-bellied
and Chestnut-headed Tesias, Chestnut-bellied Rock-Thrush, Blue Whistling
Thrush, Eye-browed Wren-Babbler, Striated Wren-Babbler, Lesser Shortwing,
White-tailed Robin, Rufous-bellied Niltava.
At the few open areas Chestnut Buntings and Grey-backed Shrike
are common.
Higher up are Golden-throated Barbets, Striated Bulbuls, Mountain
Tailorbird, Golden Babbler, Rufous-winged Fulvetta.
And if you are lucky (in order of luck): Chestnut-fronted Shrike-Babbler,
Chestnut-crowned Warbler, Yellow-vented Warbler, Yellow-bellied Flowerpecker,
Rufous-faced Warbler.
Once beyond the ridge the trail descends through a dense forest. It
is here that several birdwatchers have seen the rare Grey-bellied Tesia.
The trail goes further through grasslands until you reach some campgrounds.
At weekends in winter time it can be very busy here with hiker from Bangkok.
Look around in the bushes for Spectacled Barwing, Crested Finchbill,
White-hooded Bulbul, Black-headed Sibias, Brown-breasted Bulbul.
It is a further 30 minutes to the first summit. Little Buntings
live year-round on the summit.
When the weather is fine, you have a beautiful view over the Ping-valley
in the direction of Chiang Dao and over the valley between the peaks in
the other direction.
There are some odd looking palms along the ridges. See further for
more info about this rare plant.
The valley-trail
The valley-trail is the trail that continues from the campsites at
the bottom of the first summit to the DYK-substation (or reverse). Most
goes through grasslands. Notable species, who are all common in the winter
are Black Bulbul, Crested Finchbill, White-hooded Bulbul, Black-headed
Sibias, Gould's Sunbird, Hair-crested Drongo's, Flavescent Bulbul, Common
Rosefinch and Yellow-eyed Babbler.
If you are lucky you might encounter pheasants (Hume's) or partridges.
It takes about 3 hours to reach the substation (Den Ya Khat). Due to
the large amount of tourists that pass here in the weekends, the track should
be easy to follow.
In the half-open woodlands big noisy, single species flocks of Striated
Yuhinas might pass. (The picture in "Birds of Thailand" is confusing.)
Den Ya Khat-substation (DYK)
This popular site is the place for Giant Nuthatch and Hume's
Pheasant. To go as far as the Substation, you need a permit! This permit
can be obtained at the forestry department close to Malee's (free of costs).
Malee can provide this permit as well as a 4WD and a driver (1000 B for
the day). It is doubtful if you can get there in the wet season.
If you have a 4WD and want to go on you're own, drive from Chiang Dao
towards Chiang Mai. Turn right at km 67 a bit before a green bus shelter.
Continue until you reach the checkpoint at km 20. Here you have to present
your permit. Then another 5 km to the substation.
At the substation basic accommodation is available (ask at the forestry
department). Probably you have to reserve in advance. Camping is allowed
and free.
Take food and water with you. Sometimes food is available (perhaps
only in dry season weekends).
In case you just go for the day, leave early as it takes 1,5 hour from
Malee's.
The nuthatch can be seen between the checkpoint and the substation.
Most common in big pine trees and before 11 am. Remember its call (Get-it-up,
get-it-up).
It is also here that Hodgson's Frogmouth has been seen.
At the last intersection, there is a flowering tree in winter with
lots of nectar-eating birds (Gould's Sunbird).
A bit further on the right there is a patch with more big pine trees.
This is also a good spot for Giant Nuthatch.
The Hume's Pheasant is best looked for close to the substation
in April and May, when the grass has been burned. But even then you have
to be lucky. Let me know if you have seen it.
Common species around here are Rufescent and Hill Prinias,
Grey Bushchat, Eurasian Hoopoe, Little Pied Flycatcher, Verditer Flycatcher,
Large Wood-Shrike, Bar-winged Flycatcher-Shrike, Eurasian Jay (last
3 mostly in single-species flocks), Maroon Oriole, Blue-throated
and Great Barbet, Woodpeckers as Grey-capped, Stripe-breasted,
Lesser and Greater Yellownape.
Further there is Rusty-cheeked Scimitar-Babbler (not uncommon),
Mountain
Bamboo-Partridge (regular along the road at the ridge),
Bay
and Grey-headed Woodpecker (both shy), Chestnut-vented Nuthatch,
Silver-breasted and Long-tailed Broadbills, Slender-billed Oriole,
Daurian and White-bellied Redstart, Pale-blue Flycatcher, Chestnut-bellied
Rock-Thrush, Aberrant Bush-Warbler, Chestnut and Crested Bunting, Scarlet Finch (seldom seen).
In the smaller pine trees close to the substation are lots of warblers
(Buff-throated, 2-barred, Greenish (common), White-tailed, Inornate,
Arctic) and Great Tit. Black-tailed Crake can be heard in the small pool at the substation.
But it is difficult to get glimpse of the bird, even if you stand only
2 meters away from him.
Species irregular seen include Large and Black-winged Cuckoo-Shrikes,
Small and Short-billed Minivet, Grey Treepie, Crested Goshawk, Rufous-bellied
Eagle, Oriental and Northern Hobby, Bar-backed Partridge, Oriental
Turtle-Dove, Large-tailed Nightjar, Dusky Broadbill, Forest Wagtail, White-browed
and White-necked Laughingthrush, Crested Finchbill, Blue-winged Minlas,
Chestnut-fronted and Black-eared Shrike-Babbler, Pale-footed and
Brown Bush-Warbler, Blue-fronted Redstart, Flycatchers as Rufous-gorgetted,
Sapphire, Ultramarine, Blue & White, Slaty-blue and Large Niltava.
Remember that there will be lots of (noisy) Thai tourists in dry season
weekends.
They arrive mostly on Friday evening, hike the next day to the summit
and come back on Sunday.
Hot Springs
Nothing really special, except that it harbours some common marsh birds, such
as Chinese Pond-Heron, Little Heron, Cinnamon Bittern. I had always here
the best views of Crested Serpent-Eagle. Also some lowland species as
Indian Roller, Dusky Warbler.
There is a trail along the stream.
Here under a detailed map of the area. Click on map to see more details.
Weaver ants
Perhaps you have noticed that some trees (even in Malee's garden) have leaves
that are glued together to about the size of a football.
This is the work of the weaver ant Oecophylla smaragdina.
Oecophylla-ants have one of the most complex nest-building strategies.
Workers pull leaf edges together. If leaves are too far apart for one
worker to reach, groups of workers use the following method to build a
bridge between the leaves. Each ant walks to the end of the 'causeway of
ant bodies' and lengthens it by placing her rear in the mandibles of the
foremost worker. When the leaf on the other side is reached, the foremost
ant grabs it and passes it to the ant behind her; she then scuttles back
along the ant bridge and goes about other tasks.
Other workers carry mature larvae's to the bended leaf. They wield
the larvae in their mandibles. By applying light pressure, they induce
specialised glands in the larvae to emit strings of silk. With this silk
the leaves are glued together.
The ants feed on nearly all insects (caterpillars, tree borers and other
pests), that attack the tree. It was quickly discovered that these ants
can protect the tree and its fruit.
Already in 300 AD these carnivorous ants were used to protect citrus
fruit against damage by insect pests in Southern-China. This makes that
the utilisation of weaver ants is the eldest form of biological pest control
in agricultural history.
Whole orchards are colonised by securing a nest on one tree and then
connecting it to adjacent trees with bamboo strips. The strips serve as
bridges for the ants.
Weaver ants occur in tropical regions of the Old World and Australia.
Our ant Oecophylla smaragdina occurs from India to Queensland in Australia.
The major problem with these "citrus ants" in China is that they cannot
survive winter, unless nests are collected and the ants fed.
The method is gaining again popularity as a lot of insects become resistant
to the classical pesticides. Though beneficial, it can be painful when
picking fruit.
Weaver ants lack a functional sting as others of the subfamily Formicinae.
The painful "sting" is actually the bite of the sharp and powerful mandibles
(perhaps intensified by irritating secretions). For this reason the pain
also quickly disappears.
Only a few caterpillar species (esp. from the family Lycaenidae)
can sneak inside. They have a pantser that protects them and they produce
a liquid that calms the ants. When in the centre of the nest they feed
undisturbed on the ants eggs.
Some jumping spiders are using a different technique, but with same
result. They raise their frontlegs (spiders have 8 legs, insects 6) imitating
the ants antennas and produce also a similar secrete so that they smell similar
and can pass the guards without any problem.
In Thailand the "eggs" (pupae) of these ants are commonly eaten. You
can often see them for sale at the market.
Primitive primates
When you walk through the
forest and seek for animals, you will of course see many squirrels. They
are abundant and there are several species. If you look carefully, then
you will undoubtedly see that some "squirrels" have pointed snouts.
These animals, Tree-shrews or Tupaias, are not at all
squirrels. They are not even related to squirrels or rodents in general.
They look a bit similar with their size, colour and the long pushy tail,
but they actually have a complete different life style. Tupaias are omnivorous.
It means they eat a bit of everything, like insects, worms, seeds, fruit,
eggs and even small vertebrates. Squirrels on the contrary feed only on
plant material (seeds and fruit).
Tree-shrews have often been placed in the Order Insectivora with insect-eaters
as shrews and moles. Later lots of elements have been found, which these
mammals share with (primitive) primates. An example is the development
of the eyes. And also their dental structure is quite different from that
of insect-eaters.
But the typical element of primates (an independently moving thumb)
is still not present. And in contrary to half-apes, which are nocturnal
and cannot see colours, Tree-shrews are diurnal and can see colours.
So scientist have placed them now in a separate order (Scandentia).
The life-history of Tupaias
A few days before birth, the male makes a nest in a hole, which is
furred with lots of leafs (up to 400). The fact that a male makes a nest
is among mammals already something special.
In this nest 2 to 3 young are born. The mother licks them clean during
2 hours and then she gives them milk. The young drink up to 1/3 of their
weight. Then the mother leaves the nest and doesn't come back for 2 days.
After the next drink session, she leaves the nest again for 2 days.
She hardly takes care for the young, even after they left the nest.
Tree-shrews live only in SE-Asia in an area that stretch from India
to the south of China, Indonesia and the Philippines. There are about 19
species. Half of them live on Borneo. This suggests that they origin from
this island.
The animal you will see climbing up and down the tree or banana-plant
is most likely the Northern Tree-shrew (Tupaia belangeri).
It occurs also in Myanmar, India, China, Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam.
Recently this species was split off from the Common Tree-shrew
(Tupaia glis), a species that lives further south.
Tree-shrews are generally common and can been seen in all kinds of
habitats. Because they are active during daylight, they are not so difficult
to find. I have even seen them in a garden in the centre of Bangkok!
In case you didn't find one on your walks, go looking behind the toilet
block at the car park of Wat Tham Pha Phlong. If you sit still for a while
you might see one climbing in and out a banana tree. Another good spot
are the banana trees on the jungle walk.
The unique Thai Mountain Fan
Palm
Perhaps you've noticed already the palms which are stand lonely along
the ridge of the Chiang Dao mountain. Many have raised questions about
these bizarre trees. Some think they are plant there by the monks,
together with the many flags you see.
But no, the Thai Mountain Fan Palms (Trachycarpus oreophilus)
(Koh Doi in Thai) are here already for thousands of years. In fact
Chiang Dao is the only place in the world where it has been found!
(Though it may also occur across the border in Myanmar.)
The name 'oreophilus' means 'cloud-loving'. The area where it grows
at 1700 to 2150 m a.s.l. is almost continually covered by cloud and mist;
it is cool and rather damp. The mountain crests and ridges where they appear
are very exposed and windy from time to time, resulting in much damage
to the leaves.
The other 7 species of this genus are all small and medium size, solitary,
fan palms. They are growing in the wild in an approximate band along the lower
Himalayan mountains from northern India, through Nepal, north east India,
Burma, China, down to northern Thailand and possibly beyond that. Most
of them are quite rare.
In cultivation the Thai Mountain Fan Palm has proven to be one of the
slowest growing of the whole genus. It takes several years to put out
its first divided leaf, though perhaps it will speed up once established.
Another native plant which can be found around limestone boulders
on the mountain top is the Rhododendron ludwigianum.
It is small and evergreen and it blooms in early summer.
The "white rose" of Chiang Dao is one of the nine native
Rhododendrons found in Thailand.
The Bhutan Glory (Bhutanitis lidderdalii)
About 20,000 species of butterflies are thought to live on the earth.
This seems to be a lot. Twice as much as the number of bird species.
But in comparison to all insects, which are estimated
at over 1 million species, it is just a small group.
Chiang Dao is home to many species of butterflies. As with birds,
specialists come from all over the world to investigate the different species here.
One of the most special species in this area is the Bhutan Glory.
He belongs to the family of
Swallowtail or Birdwing Butterflies (PAPILIONIDAE), which are of the most
beautiful butterflies on earth.
The Phi Sua Saming Chiangdao - as he is called in Thailand - is a very special
one for Chiang Dao. Although it occurs also in northern India, Nepal, Bhutan,
the west and south of China and Myanmar, it was first discovered here in Chiang Dao!
The butterfly is found in virgin forests and grass fields on top of high hills.
There are three other members of this genus (B. ludlowi, B. mansfieldi & B. thaidina).
The names are coming from the fact that the
centre of abundance lies in the Kingdom of Bhutan in the Himalayas. One of the
other Bhutanitis (B. ludlowi) is even endemic to Bhutan.
All Bhutanitis species are very rare in nature. And therefore to protect
them they were put on the CITES list in Appendix II.
This means that no species may be caught anymore in the wild. Only captive bred
species can be sold. The Bhutan Glory is one of the more expensive. People pay
up to 450 US$ for a captive bred female butterfly. This includes an official paper
that states the origin of the butterfly.
Orange-striped Newt (Tylototriton shanjing)
In Thailand lives only one species of salamander, which is called the Orange-striped Newt
(Tylototriton shanjing (=T. verrucosus)).
It is a species that prefers cool woodlands in the vicinity of slow-moving water. Therefore
it is only found on the highest mountains of Thailand, such as Doi Chiang Dao.
Because of its popularity as a pet it was nearly extint in Thailand. In 1992 alone nearly 10,000
were exported from Thailand. Since then strict laws limiting the collection of this and other amphibians
have come into force.
This species looks a bit funny with its startling colouration on back and tail. Not exactly a good camouflage against
predation, you would think. However the shifting reflection of light against the pebbly beds in the water
gives it some protection when it baths freely in the open during the day. This phenomenon is known as cryptic
colouring (ie. the colours are broken up so that they merge with the colours of the pebbles).
And it has some extra protection. The skin contains some rather distasteful and potentially harmful
alkaloids. In addition the skull and upper vertebrae are heavily armoured with additional layers of
thick bone which serves to deter predators. (These have even evolved into spines in 2 other members of the genus.)
This appearance of wearing a decorate crown of a Chinese emperor, gave it
names as Emperor or Mandarin salamander.
Still, some snakes (Natrix) and birds of prey find it very tasteful and have no problems with these defences.
Perhaps therefore the salamander lives mainly at night.
The Orange-striped newt occurs - as the Bhutan Glory and the Thai Mountain Fan Palm - in the Himalayan subregion,
which includes parts of India, Nepal, China and Myanmar. Tylototriton-salamanders (also called Crocodile newts) are among the most primitive members of the
family Salamandridae. During the Tertiary they were widely dispersed even in Europe.
Bird list of Chiang Dao
Here follows the list of birds seen over the last few years. The English
names between brackets are synonyms (in italic when it's not the preferred
name). The scientific names used here are the most recent.
(*) Split-off from the European Red-rumped (Hirundo daurica)
Other animals (mammals, reptiles, amphibians)
At this moment only a heavy and unpractical book on mammals from B.Lekagul
is available. A good book about the mammals of Thailand is in the make.
For reptiles the "Photographic Guide to Snakes and other reptiles of
Thailand" is a good though limited guide.
English name
Scientific name
Comments
Rhesus Monkey
Macaca mulatta
C (C1, C1c)
Northern Tree-Shrew
Tupaia belangeri
C (W, JT)
Common Muntjac
Muntiacus muntjak
R (DYK)
Eurasian Wild Pig
Sus scrofa
UC (ST)
Siamese Hare
Lepus pequensis
UC (DYK)
Clouded Leopard
Neofelis nebulosa
R (DYK)
Yellow-throated Marten
Martes flavigula
UC (Tg)
Himalayan Striped Squirrel
Tamiops macclellandi
C (JT, MK, DYK)
Belly-banded Squirrel
Callosciurus flavimanus
C (JT, MK, DYK)
Reticulated Python
Python reticulatus
M
King Cobra (**)
Ophiophagus hannah
M
White-lipped Pit-Viper (**)
Trimeresurus albolabris
C in forest
Stripe-tailed Rat-Snake
Elaphe taeniura
C1
Keeled Rat-Snake
Ptyas carinatus
Tg
Red-necked Keelback (*)
Rhabdophis subminiatus
C (M)
Many-lined Sun-Skink
Mabuya multifasciata
VC (M)
Long-tailed Sun-Skink
Mabuya longicaudata
VC (M)
Tokay
Gecko gecko
VC (M)
Four-clawed Gecko
Gehyra mutilata
VC (M)
Flat-tailed Gecko
Cosymbotus platyurus
VC (M)
Forest Crested Lizard
Calotes emma
C (M)
Blue Crested Lizard
Calotes mystaceus
C (M)
Bengal Monitor
Varanus bengalensis
W
Orange-striped Newt
Tylototriton verrucosus
(*) venemous
(**) venemous and dangerous
References
A guide to the Birds of Thailand, B.Lekagul & P.D.Round, 1991 Birds of South-East Asia , B.F.King & E.C.Dickinson, 1975 Where to watch birds in Asia , N.Wheatley, 1996 The rise of the Mammals , M.J.Benton, 1991 The Ants , B.Hölldobler & E.O. Wilson, 1990 The Thailand Trachycarpus , Martin Gibbons & Tobias W. Spanner,
Principes 1997 A Photographic Guide to Snakes of Thailand , M.J.Cox & P.P.Van Dijk,
1998
I like to thank all birders and nature lovers for the valuable information
they left in the bird logbook at Malee's and by correspondence to me.
Special thanks to David Khun (Chiang Mai) who provided me with lots
of information and Malee, for her great food and hospitality.
I will be very glad with your observations, experiences, suggestions
or corrections. Send email to jurgen.beckers@gmail.com.
Chiang Dao is well known in Thailand for its cave. The cave system is very long
and deep (said to be the largest and deepest of Thailand).
The search for species starts already in and around Malee's garden.
The more common species seen include Purple and Black-throated
Sunbird, Oriental Magpie-robin, White-rumped Shama, Red-whiskered
and Sooty-headed Bulbul, Greater and Lesser Coucal, Green-billed
Malkoha, Brown and Burmese Shrike, Common Iora, Blue Rock-Thrush,
Puff-throated Babbler, Pied Bushchat, Chestnut-tailed Starling, Common and
Dark-necked Tailorbird, Grey-breasted Prinia.
This trail is one of the best birdwatching trails around Chiang Dao.
It has some of the best evergreen forest.
The valley-trail is the trail that continues from the campsites at
the bottom of the first summit to the DYK-substation (or reverse). Most
goes through grasslands. Notable species, who are all common in the winter
are Black Bulbul, Crested Finchbill, White-hooded Bulbul, Black-headed
Sibias, Gould's Sunbird, Hair-crested Drongo's, Flavescent Bulbul, Common
Rosefinch and Yellow-eyed Babbler.
When you walk through the
forest and seek for animals, you will of course see many squirrels. They
are abundant and there are several species. If you look carefully, then
you will undoubtedly see that some "squirrels" have pointed snouts.
Chiang Dao is home to many species of butterflies. As with birds,
specialists come from all over the world to investigate the different species here.
It is a species that prefers cool woodlands in the vicinity of slow-moving water. Therefore
it is only found on the highest mountains of Thailand, such as Doi Chiang Dao.